The Soul of Xi’an: Eating Yangrou Paomo in a 100-Year-Old Shop
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- Source：The Silk Road Echo
If you've ever wandered through the ancient alleyways of Xi’an, you know one thing is sacred: Yangrou Paomo. And if you're serious about it, you don't just grab a bowl anywhere. You go to Lao Sun Jia, a century-old restaurant where every bite tells a story older than your grandparents.
Established in 1912, Lao Sun Jia isn’t just a restaurant—it’s a cultural institution. Nestled near the Bell Tower, this joint has served over 15 million bowls of lamb stewed in fragrant broth, soaked into hand-torn flatbread. Locals line up before dawn; tourists brave jet lag for a seat. Why? Because this isn’t fast food. It’s slow soul food.
The Ritual of the Bowl
Eating Yangrou Paomo here is almost ceremonial. You get a steaming bowl of broth, a plate of unleavened bread (momo), and—here’s the kicker—you tear the bread yourself. No knives, no shortcuts. The size matters: too big, and it won’t soak properly; too small, and it turns mushy. Staff hover like culinary referees, ready to scold or assist.
Once your bread is torn to perfection, it’s whisked away and returned swimming in golden broth, loaded with tender lamb, vermicelli, pickled garlic, and a dusting of cilantro. One spoonful and you’re hit with warmth, spice, and centuries of tradition.
Why Lao Sun Jia Stands Out
Not all paomo shops are created equal. Here’s how Lao Sun Jia beats the competition:
| Feature | Lao Sun Jia | Typical Street Stall |
|---|---|---|
| Broth Simmer Time | 6+ hours | 2–3 hours |
| Lamb Quality | Grass-fed, imported from Ningxia | Local, mixed sources |
| Annual Customers | Over 300,000 | ~50,000 |
| Price per Bowl (CNY) | 48 | 25–35 |
Yes, it’s pricier—but you taste the difference. The broth is rich without being greasy, deeply spiced with star anise, cassia bark, and white pepper, yet balanced enough to sip solo.
Pro Tips for First-Timers
- Go early: Lines form by 7 AM. Aim for 6:30 if you want seating.
- Ask for extra pickled garlic: It cuts through the richness and wakes up your palate.
- Try the offal option: Adventurous eaters can add lamb tripe or brain (yes, really). It’s creamy, clean-tasting, and oddly addictive.
In a city where history seeps from every brick, Lao Sun Jia isn’t just serving food—it’s preserving heritage, one hand-torn crumb at a time. So when you visit Xi’an, skip the souvenir keychains. Do what locals do: roll up your sleeves, tear some bread, and taste the soul of the Silk Road.